February Picks

Strong points

Social

This sweater was cut and sewn in manufacturing facilities audited by the Fair Wear Foundation. The manufacturer's vision centres around adding value socially and environmentally.

Environmental

This sweater is made from 100% recycled materials. Waste cuttings from organic cotton textile production are shredded and turned back into soft cotton fibres. These are spun with fibres made from recycled plastic bottles to make a cotton and polyester blend.

This yarn is used to produce knitted and woven fabrics which are cut and sewed with care to make a high quality sweater.

Areas for development

-  This sweatshirt was screen printed using plastisol inks. Most commercial screen printers use plastisol inks, which are easy to use and last well. However, plastisol inks contain PVC and phthalates that can be harmful to the environment.

Idioma strive to use water based inks where possible but have found that for dark coloured products with a light print they do not provide the required effect. 

• Fits true to size. Take your normal size
• Regular fit.

Strong points

Social

- The jeans are cut and sewn by Yousstex, a Tunisian factory who specialise in jeans craftsmanship. The factory was recently audited by the Fair Wear Foundation who noted that the management was very attentive to working conditions. 

- The 2015 FWF audit noted gave particular praise to Youssex’s spacious and well ventilated factory, noting that there were no overcrowding issues.

- The denim fabric is sourced from DNM, a well-respected Egyptian factory.

- The cotton is certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a project seeking to improve conditions in cotton supply chains.

Environmental

- Yousstex, who cut and sew the jeans, have developed a reputation as a benchmark for sustainability and innovation in the denim industry. One example of the factories work is the use of ‘ozone technology’ which harnesses the natural bleaching properties of ozone gas and reduces the number of washes needed to finish jeans by over half. (Ozone is reconverted to ordinary oxygen before release into the environment.)

- The denim fabric is produced by DNM who recycle up to 85% of water used and produce zero wastewater.

- Mud Jeans have chosen their suppliers (fabrics and final product) due to their vicinity to the end consumer. They will shortly publish their carbon emissions data which is reported to be 62% less than the industry standard.

- Better Cotton Initiative encourages the careful monitoring of pesticides and water usage in cotton production. 

- A unique printed pocket patch is used to avoid the need for a leather or faux leather patch.  

- Mud Jeans work to circular economy principals and encourage customers to return jeans they no longer use to be transformed into new items.

Areas for development

The Better Cotton Initiative is largely based on self-assessment data from farmers. Whilst this means it is hard to take the certification as an infallible guide the work the BCI are doing with farmers is positive and has been shown to improve outcomes.

99% Better Cotton Inniative certified cotton, 1% elastane

Strong points

Social

- The organic cotton is certified by GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). To be certified by GOTS suppliers must meet high social standards.

- The recycled fabric is Global Recycle Standard (GRS) certified. This standard also requires that suppliers are inspected for good and safe working conditions.

Environmental

- Using recycled polyester contributes to less plastic waste ending up in landfill, thereby prolonging landfill life and reducing toxic emissions from incinerators. It also causes less air, water and soil contamination compared to using non-recycled polyester.

• Fits true to size. Take your normal size
• Regular fit

Strong points

Social

Hand made by the designer and his partner in their studio in Haggerston.

Environmental

High quality end of line fabric which would otherwise be wasted.

End of line cotton fabric 

Strong points

Social

- The jeans are cut and sewn by Yousstex, a Tunisian factory who specialise in jeans craftsmanship. The factory was recently audited by the Fair Wear Foundation who noted that the management was very attentive to working conditions. 

- The 2015 FWF audit noted gave particular praise to Youssex’s spacious and well ventilated factory, noting that there were no overcrowding issues.

- The denim fabric is sourced from DNM, a well-respected Egyptian factory.

- The cotton is certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a project seeking to improve conditions in cotton supply chains.

Environmental

- Yousstex, who cut and sew the jeans, have developed a reputation as a benchmark for sustainability and innovation in the denim industry. One example of the factories work is the use of ‘ozone technology’ which harnesses the natural bleaching properties of ozone gas and reduces the number of washes needed to finish jeans by over half. (Ozone is reconverted to ordinary oxygen before release into the environment.)

- The denim fabric is produced by DNM who recycle up to 85% of water used and produce zero wastewater.

- Mud Jeans have chosen their suppliers (fabrics and final product) due to their vicinity to the end consumer. They will shortly publish their carbon emissions data which is reported to be 62% less than the industry standard.

- Better Cotton Initiative encourages the careful monitoring of pesticides and water usage in cotton production. 

- A unique printed pocket patch is used to avoid the need for a leather or faux leather patch.  

- Mud Jeans work to circular economy principals and encourage customers to return jeans they no longer use to be transformed into new items.

Areas for development

The Better Cotton Initiative is largely based on self-assessment data from farmers. Whilst this means it is hard to take the certification as an infallible guide the work the BCI are doing with farmers is positive and has been shown to improve outcomes.

99% Better Cotton Inniative certified cotton, 1% elastane

Strong points

Social

- Idioma have partnered with a sourcing agent who help emerging designers source sustainably and ethically. This t-shirt was cut and sewn by one of four factories the agent works closely with in Dhaka, Bangladesh. The agent has its own team on the ground in Dhaka who visits the factories daily to monitor working conditions and ensure that nothing is subcontracted out to un-regulated factories.

In addition to these policies each of the factories is independently audited by the Fair Wear Foundation and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).

A bright future for the Bangladeshi garment industry - Flags flying outside one of the sourcing agencies Bangla partners. 

- Use of organic cotton means that pickers aren’t exposed to harmful chemicals.

Environmental

- Organic cotton. The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certificate means that all stages of production from growing to knitting and sewing of the t-shirt meet organic standards and don’t use any harmful chemicals. 

- Idioma’s sourcing partner encourage factories to employ strict waste control and use energy efficient machines

- Printed using water-based inks. (Most commercial screen printers use plastisol inks which contain PVC and phthalates that are harmful to the environment).

Areas for development

- As the sourcing agent do not own the factories and the factories also produce for other clients they do not have the power to determine worker pay. However the sourcing agency practices ‘open book’ accounting with suppliers to ensure that it pays enough for all workers to receive a living wage and educates factory management about the benefits of doing so (higher staff retention, less absenteeism, fewer quality issues, higher worker satisfaction, enhanced productivity).

• Fits true to size. Take your normal size
• Medium fit with a cut that edges toward fitted without being too much so.   

Strong points

Social

- This shirt was made by Creative Handicrafts, a social enterprise working to empower disadvantaged women of the slum communities of Mumbai through economic independence.

Creative Handicrafts was founded in 1994 by Sister Isabel Martin who felt the best way to help people overcome poverty was to provide them with the opportunity to work. Over the years hundreds of women have benefited from the skill training provided by Creative Handicrafts. After the training is completed many women go on to work for the social enterprise and some who are entrepreneurially minded have started their own businesses.

Women who do not make the grade as tailors are trained in cooking and join The Lunch Box Catering Project, supplying lunches to hundreds of office workers around Mumbai!

Creative Handicrafts also runs a crèche, providing day care for the toddlers of working mothers living in the slums.

Environmental

This shirt is made with cotton certified organic by the Soil Association under Global Organic Textile Standards. It means the product meets organic standards from field through manufacture and storage.

• Fits true to size. Take your normal size
• This top has a regular cut
• Length 70cm in size medium

Social

Elvis and Kresse run their own production facilities allowing them to ensure working conditions meet their high standards. They have one site in Kent, England and one in Turkey.

Environmental

The use of reclaimed materials reduces the need for virgin resources to be consumed and saves useful items from ending up in landfill.

Reclaimed fire hose is sourced from brigades across Britain, keeping carbon miles low.

Strong points

Social

- KCA have worked with their Turkish manufacturing partners since the beginning. They visit the factories and have long term relationships with them!

- The factory that knitted this beanie is GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified. To be certified by GOTS suppliers must meet high social standards.

Environmental

- Wool has strong sustainable credentials. The production of wool requires relatively small inputs of water and energy (sheep of the world, we salute you). In addition wool is longer lasting than most synthetic fibres and fully biodegradable after use.

- The wool is Oko-tex certified meaning the wool hasn’t been treated with any harmful substances.

- This beanie is built to last! Making a product that will stand the test of time is a hugely important aspect of producing sustainably. 

Areas for development

The KCA logo patch is made from leather and cows emit a lot of methane, which contributes to global warming.

Strong points

Social

- Cut and sewn in an exemplary factory in Tamul Nadu, India where the management have a commitment to ethical production at the core of their vision. (Workers are fairly paid and provided with everything they need such as a medical room, free lunches and recreation space. Overtime work is only ever done on a voluntary basis and workers are not allowed to do more than 12 hours per week. This is in stark contrast to many apparel factories where workers are regularly forced to work excessive hours to meet tight deadlines imposed by big brands).

- Factory independently audited by the Fair Wear Foundation.

- Use of organic cotton means that pickers are not exposed to harmful chemicals.

Environmental

WDN’s supplier has reduced the carbon footprint of their t-shirts by around 90% through a combination of innovative product design, low impact organic agriculture, efficiency in manufacturing, and by replacing standard grid electricity with renewable wind power. The supplier do not use carbon offsets and their footprint calculations are certified by the Carbon Trust Certifications in the U.K.

- Organic cotton (Global Organic Textile Standard-certified) planted and harvested by hand in a region where cotton farming is predominantly rain-fed. (Cotton’s biggest environmental impact worldwide is water use. Rain-fed cotton reduces the impact on waterways).

- Factory where the t-shirt is cut and sewn is powered entirely by renewable energy (most of which comes from 30 massive wind turbines).

- Transported without the use of air freight.


Areas for development

- WDN Collective do not currently know much about the provenance of their labels.

Strong points

Social
- Silverstick's sweatpants are made in a small factory just outside Guimaraes in the district of Braga in Northern Portugal. The factory was established in 2008 and employs 16 people. Portugal is a member of the EU and labour laws are strong. In general the Portugese textile industry is well respected as providing safe working conditions and decent hours.

Environmental

- Silverstick's sweatpants are made from GOTS certified organic cotton (Global Organic Textile Standard) which is farmed, graded and bailed in Utter Pradesh, Northern India.

- The sweatpants are made by a factory who specialises in high quality jersey wear. They are a highly durable item which can be enjoyed for many years.

- All Silverstick garments are made from non azo dyes. Azos are a class of compounds used in textile dyes, some of which have been found to be harmful. Existing European legislation bans the use of these unhealthy azo dyes  and all Silverstick clothing is certified azo and chlorine free, in accordance with Õko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 17050-1.

Areas for development

Silvestick are not currently in a position to visit their Portugese factory on a regular basis and are working towards developing even closer relationships with their factories. 

• Fits true to size. Take your normal size
• Relaxed regular fit 

Strong points

Social

- This sweatshirt was cut and sewn in Izmir, Turkey by a GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified factory. The organic cotton is sourced locally from GOTS certified producers in the region of Izmir. To be certified by GOTS suppliers must meet high social standards.

Environmental

- All stages of production are GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified meaning that no harmful chemicals or other processes have been used in the production of this garment.

- The organic cotton is grown in the province of Izmir in Turkey and is known as Aegean Cotton due to it’s proximity to the Aegean Sea. Aegean cotton is regarded as one of the best quality cottons in the world; characterised by long staple fibres which add strength and softness to our jersey fabrics. Making a product that will stand the test of time is a hugely important aspect of producing sustainably! 

Areas for development

Silverstick shared with us that the factories social impact reports are currently only available in Turkish. As they develop their relationship with the factory further they would like to gather more information that they can share with customers and other interested parties.

• Fits true to size. Take your normal size
• Regular fit 

Strong points

Social

Hand made by the designer and his partner in their studio in Haggerston.

Environmental

The fabric is woven and the sweatshirt cut and sewn within a ten mile radius keeping transportation and CO2 emissions at this stage of the process to a minimum. 

 60% Cotton, 40% Polyester